And Berlin has emerged as one of Europe's top destinations. There's plenty to see and do here. But for today's young Berliners, that's history. 10 April, 2020 10 April, 2020 by Adam. Stairs lead up to the dome, where there's not much to see except the unimpressive-from-the-inside dome itself and ho-hum views — not worth the entry price or the climb. The complex circled what was West Berlin, stretching about 100 miles — it effectively made the western sector of the city an island in the middle of communist East Germany. Holger: Little light man. The island's imposing Neoclassical buildings host five grand museums: the Pergamon Museum (classical antiquities; this is undergoing restoration — and is only partially open till at least 2019); the Neues Museum ("New Museum," famous for its Egyptian collection with the bust of Queen Nefertiti); the Old National Gallery (Alte Nationalgalerie, 19th-century art, mostly German Romantic and Realist paintings); the Altes Museum ("Old Museum," more antiquities); and the Bode Museum (European statuary and paintings through the ages, coins, and Byzantine art). Exhibits line up along several long blocks of Bernauer Strasse, stretching northeast from the Nordbahnhof S-Bahn station. We'll ponder a Holocaust memorial. Heroic struggles were waged for the fatherland. In fact, so is most of our world. Rick: So this was originally squatters. Consider a kitschy trip to the observation deck for the view and lunch in its revolving restaurant (mediocre food, horrible lounge music, reservations smart for dinner). Around the gate, information boards with pictures show how this area changed throughout the 20th century. As World War II drew to a close, the Nazis made their last stand here. The Reichstag has a short yet dramatic history. 47 reviews. by Steves, Rick (ISBN: 9781598806908) from Amazon's Book Store. Rick: OK, Ampelmännchen. Look at this, lots of workers' accommodation. “ A go to for a beer and a bite ” 03/05/2020. That's what the East German government called this Wall. The design of this memorial has no explicit meaning. With the Wall gone, the two Berlins were mended together and the scars of the Cold War began to fade. The views are marvelous. Freeing to fleedom. This historic ruin was rebuilt with a modern element: this striking glass dome. It's hard to believe, but during the Cold War — as recent as the 1980s — this entire area was a desolate and deadly no-man's land. It's the only major Hitler-era building that — somehow — survived the war's bombs. Art was legitimate only if it actively promoted the state. Sightseeing through its turbulent 20th century is an enriching experience. The adjacent museum, the House at Checkpoint Charlie, shows how desperation drove East Berliners to all kinds of creative escape attempts — over, under, and through the Wall. After a tumultuous 20th century — bombed flat in World War II, divided first by the victorious Allies, and later by its notorious Wall — reunited Berlin has resumed its place as the capital of Germany. My sightseeing in Europe this season seems to revolve around the theme of nations grappling with a heritage of war. Myer's Hotel - Berlin: Quaint...Rick Steves recomendation - See 376 traveler reviews, 248 candid photos, and great deals for Myer's Hotel - Berlin at Tripadvisor. During this period in Germany, it was common for the wealthy to purchase ruins and turn them into summer homes. This one drove six people to freedom before finally being discovered. After 1945, the bombed out building stood like a ghost through the Cold War. Once you enter the memorial, people seem to appear and then disappear. Rick: Ampelmännchen. The theme at this café: the Ampelmännchen, that jaunty “traffic-light man” that fills even avowed capitalists with a tinge of nostalgia for the communist era. This line marks where the infamous Berlin Wall once stood. The Brandenburg Gate is a glorious reminder that, long before the birth of modern Germany in 1871, the country of Prussia was the leading German state and a European power. But don’t be fixated on “German” cuisine. It's a youthful culture of people with no living memory of communism. Before 1871, Germany was fragmented — a disorganized collection of little German-speaking dukedoms and kingdoms. Cruising along a delightful riverside path, you'll pass the impressive new buildings housing the German government, fine bridges symbolizing the new connection of East and West, and inviting "beach cafés.". Five hundred years ago, this boulevard was just a carriageway connecting the Prussian emperor's palace in the city center with his hunting grounds — today's sprawling park, the Tiergarten. The ChurchKey Pub. While a massive public expense, Germans consider this a smart investment for both business and the people. The memorial itself is free and always open, but the information center underneath (also free) it is closed on Mondays. Like great Christian churches built upon pagan holy grounds, Potsdamer Platz — with its corporate logos flying high and shiny above what was the Wall — trumpets the triumph of capitalism. Young, in-the-know locals agree that Prenzlauer Berg is one of Berlin's most colorful neighborhoods. Later the DDR was founded here, and the communists used the building to house their — no joke — Ministry of Ministries. An Abandoned Guidebook on Venice’s Empty Streets, Remember the Holocaust — So it Will Never be Repeated. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy, A Peek at the Script for my New European Art Series, Daily Dose of Europe: El Greco’s “Burial of Count Orgaz”, Just a Coincidence? You’ll eat well for around €10. They don't have much money, but they still keep it up. Warning: The area has become a Cold War freak show and — as if celebrating the final victory of crass capitalism — is one of Berlin's worst tourist-traps. Berlin Travel Guide by Rick Steves For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, see our FAQ . The earliest building — the Altes Museum — went up in the 1820s, and the rest of the complex began taking shape in the 1840s under King Friedrich Wilhelm IV, who envisioned the island as an oasis of culture and learning. If you're pressed for time, visit after dinner, when most other museums are closed. It's cool, people come in with money, the creative people move out, and now you've got comfortable, desirable apartments. The former headquarters of the Nazi air force, or Luftwaffe, now houses the German Finance Ministry. After an emotional conversation with Hans, his taxi driver on how Hans was separated from his grandparents, Rick spoke about the renaissance of East Berlin after the collapse of the Berlin Wall. Consecrated in 1866, this was once the biggest and finest synagogue in Germany, with seating for 3,200 worshippers and a sumptuous Moorish-style interior modeled after the Alhambra in Granada, Spain. This island is filled with some of Berlin's most impressive museums (all part of the Staatliche Museen zu Berlin). Before World War II, it was the Times Square of Berlin — famously one of the busiest squares in Europe. Zum Wohl! To stop their people from freeing to fleedom in the west. You’ll be sold fake bits of the wall, WWII gas masks and DDR medals. Reflecting on its past while energized by a promising future, today's Berlin is an old city with a new spirit. My best advice: Wander around Prenzlauer Berg (using Kastanianallee as your spine) and see what appeals. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Intentionally disorienting? In another car, a person was actually hidden in a false gas tank. Marvel at the Brandenburg Gate, climb the Reichstag's dome, and check out Checkpoint Charlie with Rick Steves Berlin! A man of the Enlightenment, his vision was to create not just a military power, but a land of high culture…"a new Rome." (photo: Cameron Hewitt) The Sachsenhausen Memorial and Museum offers a sobering reminder of the 50,000 lives lost at the concentration camp just 20 miles north of Berlin. Karaoke singer: Let's do the Time Warp again! Now big business has moved back in, turning this area into a towering office park and shopping mall. The Mauerpark, or Wall Park, hosts a parade of alternative lifestyles. Reunited Berlin — perhaps the fastest changing and most happening city in Europe — is entertaining more visitors than ever. Just strolling through delightful parks and neighborhoods gives a fun glimpse into today's good times. The memorial, open to the sky, incorporates the elements — sunshine, rain, snow — falling on this modern-day pietà. Other information is generally the same, especially compared to the complete Rick Steves Germany guidebook, which includes all the hotels, restaurants, and nitty-gritty practical advice for Berlin and its day trips that you'll find in the city guidebook. Berlin, Hitler's capital during World War II, was essentially destroyed in 1945. You’ll know you’re in the former East Berlin because these DDR pedestrian-crossing lights have been — by popular demand — preserved. On this street, a venerable synagogue, once destroyed and now rebuilt, stands as a memorial to the Holocaust while police stand guard and, on either side, a trendy strip of restaurants and bars is jam-packed. A shiny gilded dome marks the New Synagogue, now a museum and cultural center. It's close to transportation hubs. Holger: So here's a place where the old spirit still survives. But after World War I, the German Republic was proclaimed from right here. And this vehicle — armored with concrete and iron plates — simply blasted through under a hail of bullets. Rick: Must have been a very creative time. Technically, this invalidates your passport — which has caused some tourists big problems. Now I have kids and I enjoy living here. Rick Steves: German cuisine is a treat for travelers.
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